Monday, November 29, 2010

Been Gone Way To Long

Well I haven't posted anything since our trip down to Moe's Valley.  Well for an update on Logan's weather it has been off and on blizzard conditions for the last week or so making any outdoor climbing impossible.  Since we have been forced inside to the gym the team and I have been hitting it hard.  We have an upcoming local competition and are getting really excited for it!!!  Local comps are so much fun!!!  You get to hang out with all the regulars to the gym, swap beta, and talk shit!!! What is there not to like about it?!?!  Anyways that all the real excitement for the moment.  Coming up in January we've got regionals in Boise, ID; that will keep us busy training for that!!!  Anyways I hope your outdoor climbing endeavors look more hopeful than mine do as of right now.  Although even though winter has his us hard doesn't mean its gonna keep me indoors!!!

Monday, November 15, 2010

We're BACK!!!!

Well after a great weekend of perfect temps, good friends and amazing sending we are back in Cache Valley :(  It only sad for one reason the weather!!!  On our drive home last night we ran into near white out conditions and freezing temps!  Not what you want after a weekend of high 50's!  Anyways back to the trip.

Friday-
We all met at the Rock Haus to split up pads and gear to make it all fit in the cars.  We set out around 345 or 400 not sure and I can't remember.  We ate that night at the Five Brothers or something like that it really doesn't matter what we did that day anyways; all you really need to know is that the car I was in nearly ran out of gas and we rolled in around 1230 on Friday night/Saturday morning.

Saturday-
After a quick breakfast and packing up the tent we were off for a day of sending!!!!  The team was stoked and so was I.  We quickly drove to Moe's Valley in St. George, Utah and dished out our pads and other gear.  We had 7 people and 6 pads; needless to say it was pretty awesome!  This was all ours first time at Moe's and because of that this was more of a recon trip.  We basically just wanted to get on a few problems see where we were at strength wise and take that knowledge home and train with Moe's in the back of our MIND!  Here are some pics from the first day's findings!
The Beautiful Moe's Valley
The first problem we did a crimpy V5

Same climb as above

This problem took me a few goes before it went.  Not because of the big first move, but the mantel!

The Mantel!

My problem I put up while I was down there.  There were a few holds chalked and it looked like it had been tried a few times but wit no success.  There were two options for the route.  The first was to go left to these two decently sized holds fairly easy nothing to dramatic!  That went down fairly easy and I named it Slytherin!  Yes I am a Harry Potter NERD!!




The other option for this route was a committing dead point to minuscule crimp and an incredibly high right foot!  This problem was the HIGHLIGHT of the day for me!!!  It was exactly the problem that I wanted to do and I enjoyed it thoroughly!!!  I named it Slytherin's Heir and I don't have a V grade for it other than      V-Committing!


The next picture is a not from the send because my friend missed when I got it so I had to redo it with my sweater on cause it was a little chilly!


My favorite problems so far!!!

Sunday-
Well after an amazing day of bouldering it's pretty obvious that our tips and toes were feeling it!  But we boar it well and strapped on our harnesses!!!  We headed to Prophecy Wall to do some multi-pitching!!!  Prophecy isn't to long the majority of the routes are 3 pitches long and the one is usually 5.8 to 5.9.  Well we had our eyes on the route called Misfit Prophets.  It had three pitches and was as follows 5.10c/d, 5.9, and 5.8.  We choose this because we were pressed for time and thought that the 10c sounded reasonable.  Yet we forgot that we are no longer at the limestone crags of Logan Canyon but in the land of the sandstone!!  I partnered up with Zowe, a member of my climbing team, and I opted for the first lead.  I started up the pitch with the up most confidence that this was gonna be easy!  Well I get up to the first ledge and clip the bolt and go to make the first move of the long crux!  It took me a while to work out a sequence that I was pretty sure was gonna work.  And once I had decided that was the only way I committed myself to it and got it done.  The rock was sandy, the wind was blowing, and the climbing was adventurous!!!  That was the best thing about that climb; it reminded me what climbing is all about!  It's not about how hard of boulder problem you just did or the sport you route you just crushed.  It's about adventure and the experience of it all!  It's about getting out and up; and putting some fear into your heart!  Sorry about that little rant that I had there, but it just came out!  Anyways, the last two pitches went smooth as smooth could be!  Zowe followed perfectly and gave me peace of mind when we was belaying.  All in all, it was an AMAZING trip!



Sunday, November 7, 2010

Momentum Comp Weekend

Alright this weekend was sweet! Well the team and I went to Momentum for a climbing comp this weekend!  It started off normal enough with the warm up, stretching and going over problem that look the best!  But as soon as the comp started and the problems I thought we were going to have a problem with the kids easily flashed and my anxiety was quickly gone!  They had a base to build off of and we quickly started looking for harder problems.  Zowe picked out quite a few problems that looked way awesome and she quickly dispatched all of them!  Caden and Tyson choose problems too and worked them until they achieved the sends!  Below we I got some pictures courtesy of Seth Pritchard.
 Caden Bloxham on a 650; Caden took first place in his Male Junior category
Tyson Bloxham on a 730 problem; Ty took 5th in his category which one of the more competitive
Zowe Gardener on 610; Zowe took first in her category and 4th overall being beat out of third by only 20 points!  Also Zowe flashed a problem worth 820 points and got an 800 and 950 both on her third go!

      Anyways, we're all super stoked about this comp and it has given us new motivation to train for regionals which are in January in Boise, ID.  Alright, well next weekend the team and I are going down to Triassic for quick boulder session!  I'll upload some pictures when we get back!!! Stay STOKED!

Sunday, October 31, 2010

The Creek!

Well went back to the Creek on Thurday and got back on projects and tried to clean some new blocks.  Unfortunately snow has began to accumulate on the ground and on top of the boulder making things some what difficult, but its still way worth it.  Here's some pictures of our most recent trip out!

         All of these pictures are on the project at the Main Boulder at Cherry.  I've dubbed it Hagrid cause it's long and has some burly moves!


                                          All the moves have gone and I'm just waiting to link it!

Hopefully the project will go and I'll get more pictures soon!

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Cherry Creek, Deer Hunting, and Rain Rain Rain

Well the weekend came and went.  Sadly I only got 1 day of climbing in.  The place we have been establishing is called Cherry Creek it has a few problems nothing too hard yet, but we're working on it.  It's in Richmond, UT which is slightly north of Logan.  The landings are good and the rock is some what solid and getting better every trip.  I have pictures but I'm at school and forgot my camera at home, oh well I guess!  Saturday I went deer hunting all day; while the team went back up to Cherry to try and get some more problems established.  Thankfully Saturday we're got our deer and were free to relax all Sunday in the pouring rain.  It has been raining and snowing the last three days, but today it has finally cleared!  Tomorrow we're hoping for another frolic among the boulders!!!

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Bouldering TOMORROW!!!

Getting excited for tomorrow!!  Taking the Rock Haus climbing team up to the new bouldering area Cherry Creek!  Rumor is there is some sweet projects up there!!  Stay tuned for some pics!!!

Monday, October 18, 2010

Weekend Update!

Well another weekend gone and only a few more until winter!  Saturday was my birthday and I turned 21, but that wasn't as exciting as working my projects.  The extension to Bolt Ladder which probably goes around 13- or 13.  Now I've given it a few goes nothing to serious just kind of getting moves down and getting a feel for it.  But it's still not giving an inch!  So in order to get out of my rut I have turned my attention to a new route that is not my style at all!  It's called Vulcan Crawl and goes at 5.13a.  It starts out on a little tips crack with good feet so not so much jamming but just kinda juggy.  Then it goes straight into a horizontal roof for probably 20 feet or so.  Overhanging juggy routes are not my style, but I am excited to see what happens!

Monday, October 11, 2010

First Entry

Well I finally decided to start a blog!  It seems that now days everyone is blogging about something so I thought I'd jump on the band wagon and do it myself.  Right now I am sitting at home watching some Malcom in the Middle and relaxing after a hard day of climbing.  Today we went to the crag called Mullein Land there are a few 5.9's and a few 5.10's the hardest thing there is a 5.11c.  Now thats nothing amazingly hard, but when you consider the fact that it can go on gear!?!  It takes it to the next level!  Now the climb in most cases wouldn't be considered a regular gear route seeing as the 11c section is right at the beginning with no gear.  So after pulling this move you get into this crack and place a BD C4 #1.  Now I placed a MT #4 TCU and it pulled right out when I took at the top of the climb.  That crack continues to the top and then you reach the anchors and it's over!  So in all I placed 4 pieces and 2 of them ripped out when I took!  So anyways that just the what I've been up today and yeah that's about it!  My birthday is on Saturday and Friday I have off so I'm gonna go work on my project!