Monday, April 30, 2012

St. George, Red Rocks, and China Cave

Well school is almost out for the summer, I have a month left before my wife and I move to Colorado for the summer, and I can't wait!  I have a few more projects that I would like to tick before I head out, but if I don't get them they'll still be there when I get back.  As for the last few months I have been on the road a little bit.  I made little trip to City of Rocks, Red Rocks, and St. George. 

The trip to City of Rocks was a very eventful day trip.  On the way there I popped my tire and had to change it.  We decided since we were already there that we may as well climb.  We warmed up on Coffee and Cornflakes an old school 5.10a that is really fun!  After that we jumped on Private Idaho a 5.9 dihedral crack.  This was my first really "crack climb" and I can say that I throughly enjoyed it! After that it was getting pretty late, but I wanted to do one more climb.  I had picked it out the day before and I at least wanted to try it before we left.  The climb is called Euro Beast (5.12a) it climbs an easy slab to an overhanging jug section.  That is where the crux is and pulling the final bulge to the chains was a little awkward.  This was my first 12 in the city and now that I am feeling comfortable climbing there I'm going to start pushing myself there.


The following weekend we travelled down to St. George for two days and then move on to Red Rocks.  In St. George we mostly climbed at the Green Valley Gap.  The first day we were there we rolled in around 10:30 pm, set up camp and decided that we wanted to do a night climb we jumped on some random 5.8 and had a blast!  The next day we warmed up on some 8's and 9's; we then jumped on a 10d and a 11a.  After feeling ready I set my sights on the route that I wanted to get that day.  The climb is called Stick to Your Guns 5.12c.  It climbs a horizontal roof and then moves onto a short headwall.  The crux of the route is a big dead point to a three finger pocket.  I fell my first go because I missed the pocket, but next go walked right up it. 







The following day we went to Red Rocks.  I visited Tsunami Wall for the first time; it had some really fun climbs and I love the location.  While over there I jumped on Poseidon Adventure 5.12c and the crux is a committing dyno above a slab.  Needless to say I failed to stick the dyno and came flying down and spranged my ankle.  That was the end of my trip :(

A week later back in Logan I made a trip up China Cave.  The route that I had been working had no name and no one I talked to knew anything about it.  I started working it just for fun, but it quickly turned into a love obsession.  I was able to link all the moves in about 2 days of work and quickly sent once the conditions were good.  I named the route Time-Turner and figure that it goes at about 5.13a.