Monday, November 29, 2010

Been Gone Way To Long

Well I haven't posted anything since our trip down to Moe's Valley.  Well for an update on Logan's weather it has been off and on blizzard conditions for the last week or so making any outdoor climbing impossible.  Since we have been forced inside to the gym the team and I have been hitting it hard.  We have an upcoming local competition and are getting really excited for it!!!  Local comps are so much fun!!!  You get to hang out with all the regulars to the gym, swap beta, and talk shit!!! What is there not to like about it?!?!  Anyways that all the real excitement for the moment.  Coming up in January we've got regionals in Boise, ID; that will keep us busy training for that!!!  Anyways I hope your outdoor climbing endeavors look more hopeful than mine do as of right now.  Although even though winter has his us hard doesn't mean its gonna keep me indoors!!!

Monday, November 15, 2010

We're BACK!!!!

Well after a great weekend of perfect temps, good friends and amazing sending we are back in Cache Valley :(  It only sad for one reason the weather!!!  On our drive home last night we ran into near white out conditions and freezing temps!  Not what you want after a weekend of high 50's!  Anyways back to the trip.

Friday-
We all met at the Rock Haus to split up pads and gear to make it all fit in the cars.  We set out around 345 or 400 not sure and I can't remember.  We ate that night at the Five Brothers or something like that it really doesn't matter what we did that day anyways; all you really need to know is that the car I was in nearly ran out of gas and we rolled in around 1230 on Friday night/Saturday morning.

Saturday-
After a quick breakfast and packing up the tent we were off for a day of sending!!!!  The team was stoked and so was I.  We quickly drove to Moe's Valley in St. George, Utah and dished out our pads and other gear.  We had 7 people and 6 pads; needless to say it was pretty awesome!  This was all ours first time at Moe's and because of that this was more of a recon trip.  We basically just wanted to get on a few problems see where we were at strength wise and take that knowledge home and train with Moe's in the back of our MIND!  Here are some pics from the first day's findings!
The Beautiful Moe's Valley
The first problem we did a crimpy V5

Same climb as above

This problem took me a few goes before it went.  Not because of the big first move, but the mantel!

The Mantel!

My problem I put up while I was down there.  There were a few holds chalked and it looked like it had been tried a few times but wit no success.  There were two options for the route.  The first was to go left to these two decently sized holds fairly easy nothing to dramatic!  That went down fairly easy and I named it Slytherin!  Yes I am a Harry Potter NERD!!




The other option for this route was a committing dead point to minuscule crimp and an incredibly high right foot!  This problem was the HIGHLIGHT of the day for me!!!  It was exactly the problem that I wanted to do and I enjoyed it thoroughly!!!  I named it Slytherin's Heir and I don't have a V grade for it other than      V-Committing!


The next picture is a not from the send because my friend missed when I got it so I had to redo it with my sweater on cause it was a little chilly!


My favorite problems so far!!!

Sunday-
Well after an amazing day of bouldering it's pretty obvious that our tips and toes were feeling it!  But we boar it well and strapped on our harnesses!!!  We headed to Prophecy Wall to do some multi-pitching!!!  Prophecy isn't to long the majority of the routes are 3 pitches long and the one is usually 5.8 to 5.9.  Well we had our eyes on the route called Misfit Prophets.  It had three pitches and was as follows 5.10c/d, 5.9, and 5.8.  We choose this because we were pressed for time and thought that the 10c sounded reasonable.  Yet we forgot that we are no longer at the limestone crags of Logan Canyon but in the land of the sandstone!!  I partnered up with Zowe, a member of my climbing team, and I opted for the first lead.  I started up the pitch with the up most confidence that this was gonna be easy!  Well I get up to the first ledge and clip the bolt and go to make the first move of the long crux!  It took me a while to work out a sequence that I was pretty sure was gonna work.  And once I had decided that was the only way I committed myself to it and got it done.  The rock was sandy, the wind was blowing, and the climbing was adventurous!!!  That was the best thing about that climb; it reminded me what climbing is all about!  It's not about how hard of boulder problem you just did or the sport you route you just crushed.  It's about adventure and the experience of it all!  It's about getting out and up; and putting some fear into your heart!  Sorry about that little rant that I had there, but it just came out!  Anyways, the last two pitches went smooth as smooth could be!  Zowe followed perfectly and gave me peace of mind when we was belaying.  All in all, it was an AMAZING trip!



Sunday, November 7, 2010

Momentum Comp Weekend

Alright this weekend was sweet! Well the team and I went to Momentum for a climbing comp this weekend!  It started off normal enough with the warm up, stretching and going over problem that look the best!  But as soon as the comp started and the problems I thought we were going to have a problem with the kids easily flashed and my anxiety was quickly gone!  They had a base to build off of and we quickly started looking for harder problems.  Zowe picked out quite a few problems that looked way awesome and she quickly dispatched all of them!  Caden and Tyson choose problems too and worked them until they achieved the sends!  Below we I got some pictures courtesy of Seth Pritchard.
 Caden Bloxham on a 650; Caden took first place in his Male Junior category
Tyson Bloxham on a 730 problem; Ty took 5th in his category which one of the more competitive
Zowe Gardener on 610; Zowe took first in her category and 4th overall being beat out of third by only 20 points!  Also Zowe flashed a problem worth 820 points and got an 800 and 950 both on her third go!

      Anyways, we're all super stoked about this comp and it has given us new motivation to train for regionals which are in January in Boise, ID.  Alright, well next weekend the team and I are going down to Triassic for quick boulder session!  I'll upload some pictures when we get back!!! Stay STOKED!