St. George, Red Rocks, and China Cave

Well school is almost out for the summer, I have a month left before my wife and I move to Colorado for the summer, and I can't wait!  I have a few more projects that I would like to tick before I head out, but if I don't get them they'll still be there when I get back.  As for the last few months I have been on the road a little bit.  I made little trip to City of Rocks, Red Rocks, and St. George. 

The trip to City of Rocks was a very eventful day trip.  On the way there I popped my tire and had to change it.  We decided since we were already there that we may as well climb.  We warmed up on Coffee and Cornflakes an old school 5.10a that is really fun!  After that we jumped on Private Idaho a 5.9 dihedral crack.  This was my first really "crack climb" and I can say that I throughly enjoyed it! After that it was getting pretty late, but I wanted to do one more climb.  I had picked it out the day before and I at least wanted to try it before we left.  The climb is called Euro Beast (5.12a) it climbs an easy slab to an overhanging jug section.  That is where the crux is and pulling the final bulge to the chains was a little awkward.  This was my first 12 in the city and now that I am feeling comfortable climbing there I'm going to start pushing myself there.

The following weekend we travelled down to St. George for two days and then move on to Red Rocks.  In St. George we mostly climbed at the Green Valley Gap.  The first day we were there we rolled in around 10:30 pm, set up camp and decided that we wanted to do a night climb we jumped on some random 5.8 and had a blast!  The next day we warmed up on some 8's and 9's; we then jumped on a 10d and a 11a.  After feeling ready I set my sights on the route that I wanted to get that day.  The climb is called Stick to Your Guns 5.12c.  It climbs a horizontal roof and then moves onto a short headwall.  The crux of the route is a big dead point to a three finger pocket.  I fell my first go because I missed the pocket, but next go walked right up it. 

The following day we went to Red Rocks.  I visited Tsunami Wall for the first time; it had some really fun climbs and I love the location.  While over there I jumped on Poseidon Adventure 5.12c and the crux is a committing dyno above a slab.  Needless to say I failed to stick the dyno and came flying down and spranged my ankle.  That was the end of my trip :(

A week later back in Logan I made a trip up China Cave.  The route that I had been working had no name and no one I talked to knew anything about it.  I started working it just for fun, but it quickly turned into a love obsession.  I was able to link all the moves in about 2 days of work and quickly sent once the conditions were good.  I named the route Time-Turner and figure that it goes at about 5.13a.

5 Days in the 50's!

Well the weather man says that this next week is going to be a glorious one, so I'm crossing my fingers!!!  Today me and my friend Ty got out up the canyon to look at some boulders that he has had his eye on.  The first place we went was a little cliff ban just passed Zanavoo.  We named this route Aragog due to the nature of all the holds falling off and the giant spiders web in the start hold.  

I didn't get a picture of the other boulder we went to, but it looks SICK!!!  There are two problems on it one is a huge hand crack and the other looks really hard!!!  Hopefully later this week we'll see some sends on them!!!

Joe's Valley and China Cave

Two weeks ago a group of friends and I went down to Joe's Valley.  I sent to V7's and almost flashed a V9.  The first problem I got on was Big Boy.  I worked this problem last trip and had some problems with the last few moves, but this time I sent first go!

After that I started looking at Spam.  I looked at it the last time we were down there and didn't think that I would be able to do it; this time however, I got on it and did it third go!

The next day we woke up to snow on the ground and a blizzard moving in.  This last week the cloudy and stormy weather cleared making it so I could get up the canyon and try my project.  The route that I've been working is in the 13 range and totally my anti style!

There and back again!

Well it has been far too long since I have posted anything and that is a bloomin shame!  Alright well lets recap on some things that have happened since my last post.  Well I went on another trip to Joe's Valley were I flashed Chips V7.  It was a complete and utter surprise to me when I did it, but was super stoked! 

The move right after the start.

Hit that left hand and set the feet and launch for the good hold.

Good hold!

Then top out!

Shortly after that trip to Joe's I went on another trip to Triassic.  It was over my birthday weekend and it was freaking awesome!  I personally put up probably around 10 new problems down in the area that we have been developing.  There were two problems that really stick out in my mind as amazing!  There was this high ball problem that probably went at about V5 that was just amazing to climb.  I don't have any pictures of this problem, but next time I get down there I will!  The other problem I put up at an established called the Petroglyph.  I think that it falls in the V8 range and I named it Lucius!  

Here is the crux move on Lucius.

After that trip things got a little slow; so I hit the gym and start training.  All the training must have paid off because when the weather finally cleared up I immediately ran up the canyon and started trying some new climbs.  One of my friends found a new problem at second practice; he cleaned it and made the first ascent shortly after.  A few days later he took me up there and I made quick work of the problem for the second ascent of Hungarian Horntail V6.

Also that same day I decided that I wanted to solo a pretty well known route for the area called Seldom Seen.  It goes at around 12a and was really fun! 

                                    

Joe's Valley and Other Destinations

Two weeks ago I went on a trip to Joe's Valley with tow of the kids that I coach.  This was the first time that any of us have ever been to Joe's!  This was mostly a recon trip to see what the grading and climbing was like.  Joe's has some of the most amazing sandstone that I have climbed on in a long time.  I have climbed on sandstone in NUMEROUS places such as Garden of the Gods, Red Rocks, Moe's Valley, Triassic, and RROCS and I can honestly says that Joe's is one of my favorite sandstone areas!  Joe's is nestled in this little canyon just outside of Orangeville, UT.  At night when we arrived we couldn't see anything and slept with excitement for what the morning would bring!  The next day we woke up and sent 20 problems ranging from V1-V6.  We got on some harder problems to test the water so that when we went home we knew what we needed to train for.  We got on Resident Evil V10 and sussed out the moves and the last little while we've been training so in two weeks we can get back down there and send shit!  Anyways here are some pictures from Joe's and a few other trips that I've been on this summer!

Working the ending moves to Resident Evil, Joe's Valley

Sending Sun in My Eyes Traverse, Joe's Valley

Sending Solar Power, Logan Canyon

Standing below a 12 something after my send just before leaving

Going over Lunch Counter, Snake River, Alpine Wyoming

Good to be Back!!!

Well summer got off to a  fast start!  I can't believe that it is already July!  I attended my schools graduation on June 1st and I have to say it was an amazing experience.  I started teaching the special education class at Fast Forward Charter High School back in April.  It is a wonderful place and can't wait to get back next year :) Shortly after school was out i got married!  I got married June 4th and I can't be happier!

After the wedding we went on our honeymoon to Orlando, Florida.  The honeymoon was amazing and best of all we got to go to Harry Potter Land!

The weekend after we got back from Orlando we ran Ragnar.  Ragnar is a team relay race from Logan to Park City.  The team consists of 12 people, you each run 3 legs and the entire race is 200 miles long.  This year we ran it in 33 hours and 53 minutes.  We added sometime from last year, but we have next year to redeem ourselves.  In October we're running the Vegas Ragnar which will be a blast!  Anyways I just thought I would just give an up date and I'll have my climbing pictures up later this week :)

So far the summer has been really fun, but things will get better :)  Sadly I am missing the Climb X photo shoot this weekend because I am poor and can't make it out there.  On the upside though I'm heading to Maple Canyon for some sending!  Anyway I hope everyone is have a great summer!!!