Monday, May 2, 2011

Back from Triassic!

Its been too long since I've been bouldering on real rock!  This was my first trip down to Triassic and it was amazing!  Triassic lies about 30 minutes south of Price, UT.  The sandstone blocks litter the landscape as far as the eye can see.  There are well known areas such as the Golden Ladle and Land of a Thousand Boulders.  A few of the people establish the new areas are local gym employees.  They travel down there through out the year putting up awesome new lines and cleans hundreds of new problems.  This last March they took a company trip down to Triassic to spend a week cleaning and sending new problems.  They cleaned a lot and sent quite a few, but there were some that had to be left for another day.  When they all came back they showed me pictures of the new area and I was psyched!  So we set up this trip with the intent of going down and sending some of the projects at their new area and thats where it all began.

Friday:
We woke up at 6 am and were on the road by 630.  We arrived at camp around 1130 and quickly set up camp.  After set up we bouldered around the "Camp Boulder" for about 20 minutes or so to warm up.  On the camp boulder there is really only one harder problem.  You start in this little dish with your left hand and a sandy sloper with your right at about an arms length away.  After that you smear a high right foot; pull in and go for the top!  Really fun and probably around V5 or so.  After playing on the camp boulder the wind pick up and we decided to go hiking for a while.  We drove over to the overlook, hiked down to the bottom, and looked at all the boulders down there.  That only killed about an hour and the wind was still raging when we got back to camp so we decided to take a power nap for three hours :)  After we all woke up we drove into Price to pick up some better firewood because the wood around camp just wasn't cutting it.  When we got back we at our tin foil dinners and then went bed praying for better weather in the morning.

Saturday:
I wake up to a text message that morning saying that my Calculus final that was scheduled for Thursday of the following week was rescheduled for Monday now.  So right off the bat I think to my self that I have to do the sending today then.  I get up eat a quick breakfast and I'm off to the boulders before anyone else is awake.  I decided that I would start warming up before Team Bloxham showed up.  Team Bloxham are some of the kids that I used to coach Caden and Tysen along with their sister Megan and dad Dean.  They couldn't come up Friday and had to go home later that day on Saturday so they as well had to send things fast!  After I was done warming up Team Bloxham arrived and we started our send fest!  The first thing to go down was an undone slab project from their last trip.  I named it Diagon Alley and man was it thin!
Diagon Alley

After that send we watched Caden get another first ascent on a climb next to it.  After the slab area we decided to go to the Mono Project.  This climb was the main reason that I came to Triassic.  I saw my friend Brad's pictures of him on it and it looked amazing.  This climb was all I could think about for the days leading up to this trip.  The problem was probably the hardest of the trip and took me a good 40 minutes to unlock the beta and put it all together.  In all honesty one of the main reasons that I sent this problem was that I had amazing shoes!  I wore my Climb X Emotions and the made every tiny foot chip feel like a giant ledge!  Anyways here's some pictures.  

Start both hands in the rail and move left hand into a full pad side pull crimp

Then it gets tricky you move your feet a lot until you have your left foot on a crappy smear and your right foot in a decent backstep and then reach into the mono.

After that you do a little more foot work and then stand up into a crappier side pull and get a really high foot on the starting hold.  After that there is only two more crimp to the top out horn.

This problem was by far my most favorite to climb and was stoked to get the first ascent!  I named it Deatheater because it chewed the shit out of my middle finger! Anyways we went and did another climb and got first ascents on this low ball problem that was awesome but I'll have to post the video in a little while cause I can't find it!  Anyways the trip was awesome and I hope you enjoy the pictures!

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