I'm Back!!!

WOW!!!  This last month has been crazy!  Not sure how I made through that last week of finals but I did thank goodness.  Now it's time to start a new semester and pick up the training for spring sending!  First off I just got two more kids on my team and I am super stoked!!!  That brings the total up to five and the girls now out weigh the guys.  So really we haven't been up to much here in Cache Valley mostly because of the massive amounts of snow that have been pounding the Wasatch Range.  Also on the 15th the team and I will be traveling to Boise, ID for ABS Regionals!!!  Woot Woot we're getting stoked!

Climb X Rad Moc Review

Climb X Rad Moc

This is one of the most sensitive shoes that I have ever worn.  Now for me that is what makes this shoe great.  Wearing right out of the box is not a problem; after one time of use it fits like a slipper.  Personally I find this shoe excels at bouldering indoor and outdoor.  The new Climb X rubber formula is extremely sticky and has amazing endurance.  After nearly three month of use the shoes still have that newly broken in rubber feel to them.  When I say I mainly use these shoes for bouldering that’s not to say that I don’t use them for Sport Climbing as well.  When roped up I like to use them for overhanging routes were I need the sensitivity of really forcing my toe into the holds.  So if you are looking for a shoe that will do it all, that’s incredibly sensitive, and will endure abuse I would highly recommend the Rad Moc!

Climb X Drifter Review

Climb X Drifter

This shoe I initially got for a training shoe, but once I put it on I knew it had more potential than I gave it credit for.  Although it is given a stiffer rubber rating, I found that I broken in really fast and is surprisingly sensitive.  Within my first few sessions of wearing I soon realized that I was able to wear in between climbs and on my hard projects as well.  Really the only thing different in my opinion between this shoe and the Redpoint is the different heels and few other appearance differences.  All in all this shoes is full of surprises!  You can were it for climbing 5.10’s and the next day wear for finals at your local comp.  I highly recommend this shoe for anyone looking for a Jack of All Trades!

Climb X Rock Star Review

Climb X Rock Star

Climb X Rock Star

The Rock Star is one of those shoes that I never leave at home.  Whether I’m off to do easy multi-pitch or pull at the local crag it is always in my bag.  I recently went on a trip to St. George, UT and climbed all day at Prophecy Wall and the Rock Star was the shoe of choice.  The lacing system allows you to apply the pressure were it needs to be for the harder pitches and loosen them for the easier ones and at belays.  Now this shoe is quite a bit stiffer than the Rad Moc and Drifters which is why I mainly use it for routes, not so much bouldering.  Just my personal preference you may decide differently.  Two other features of note are the toothed heel which makes for an incredibly secure heel hook and the little bit of down turned toe.  This last aspect helps with feet whether on the vertical or overhung.

Been Gone Way To Long

Well I haven't posted anything since our trip down to Moe's Valley.  Well for an update on Logan's weather it has been off and on blizzard conditions for the last week or so making any outdoor climbing impossible.  Since we have been forced inside to the gym the team and I have been hitting it hard.  We have an upcoming local competition and are getting really excited for it!!!  Local comps are so much fun!!!  You get to hang out with all the regulars to the gym, swap beta, and talk shit!!! What is there not to like about it?!?!  Anyways that all the real excitement for the moment.  Coming up in January we've got regionals in Boise, ID; that will keep us busy training for that!!!  Anyways I hope your outdoor climbing endeavors look more hopeful than mine do as of right now.  Although even though winter has his us hard doesn't mean its gonna keep me indoors!!!

We're BACK!!!!

Well after a great weekend of perfect temps, good friends and amazing sending we are back in Cache Valley :(  It only sad for one reason the weather!!!  On our drive home last night we ran into near white out conditions and freezing temps!  Not what you want after a weekend of high 50's!  Anyways back to the trip.

Friday-
We all met at the Rock Haus to split up pads and gear to make it all fit in the cars.  We set out around 345 or 400 not sure and I can't remember.  We ate that night at the Five Brothers or something like that it really doesn't matter what we did that day anyways; all you really need to know is that the car I was in nearly ran out of gas and we rolled in around 1230 on Friday night/Saturday morning.

Saturday-
After a quick breakfast and packing up the tent we were off for a day of sending!!!!  The team was stoked and so was I.  We quickly drove to Moe's Valley in St. George, Utah and dished out our pads and other gear.  We had 7 people and 6 pads; needless to say it was pretty awesome!  This was all ours first time at Moe's and because of that this was more of a recon trip.  We basically just wanted to get on a few problems see where we were at strength wise and take that knowledge home and train with Moe's in the back of our MIND!  Here are some pics from the first day's findings!

The Beautiful Moe's Valley

The first problem we did a crimpy V5

Same climb as above

This problem took me a few goes before it went.  Not because of the big first move, but the mantel!

The Mantel!

My problem I put up while I was down there.  There were a few holds chalked and it looked like it had been tried a few times but wit no success.  There were two options for the route.  The first was to go left to these two decently sized holds fairly easy nothing to dramatic!  That went down fairly easy and I named it Slytherin!  Yes I am a Harry Potter NERD!!

The other option for this route was a committing dead point to minuscule crimp and an incredibly high right foot!  This problem was the HIGHLIGHT of the day for me!!!  It was exactly the problem that I wanted to do and I enjoyed it thoroughly!!!  I named it Slytherin's Heir and I don't have a V grade for it other than      V-Committing!

The next picture is a not from the send because my friend missed when I got it so I had to redo it with my sweater on cause it was a little chilly!

My favorite problems so far!!!

Sunday-

Well after an amazing day of bouldering it's pretty obvious that our tips and toes were feeling it!  But we boar it well and strapped on our harnesses!!!  We headed to Prophecy Wall to do some multi-pitching!!!  Prophecy isn't to long the majority of the routes are 3 pitches long and the one is usually 5.8 to 5.9.  Well we had our eyes on the route called Misfit Prophets.  It had three pitches and was as follows 5.10c/d, 5.9, and 5.8.  We choose this because we were pressed for time and thought that the 10c sounded reasonable.  Yet we forgot that we are no longer at the limestone crags of Logan Canyon but in the land of the sandstone!!  I partnered up with Zowe, a member of my climbing team, and I opted for the first lead.  I started up the pitch with the up most confidence that this was gonna be easy!  Well I get up to the first ledge and clip the bolt and go to make the first move of the long crux!  It took me a while to work out a sequence that I was pretty sure was gonna work.  And once I had decided that was the only way I committed myself to it and got it done.  The rock was sandy, the wind was blowing, and the climbing was adventurous!!!  That was the best thing about that climb; it reminded me what climbing is all about!  It's not about how hard of boulder problem you just did or the sport you route you just crushed.  It's about adventure and the experience of it all!  It's about getting out and up; and putting some fear into your heart!  Sorry about that little rant that I had there, but it just came out!  Anyways, the last two pitches went smooth as smooth could be!  Zowe followed perfectly and gave me peace of mind when we was belaying.  All in all, it was an AMAZING trip!

St. George!!!

HERE WE COME!!!!